The Warrior's Ways

By Valentrus Sarco

June 7, 2000





Let me start by congratulating you on your choice of profession. It is a hard road to become a successful warrior, but it is also a lot of fun. You can role-play your character as most anything, from a gallant knight to a crude barbarian. There are many role-playing options for a warrior character, and that is the truly enjoyable part.



Index:

Races

Stats

Training

Damage Factor Reduction

The Warrior Guild

Armor

Role-playing

Parting Advice



1-Races



In GemStone III you have the choice of being one of eight distinct races (six if you wish to nitpick about what truly constitutes a race). Each has its own set of pros and cons.



Humans-they are adequate at nearly everything. No penalties to worry about, but no significant advantages.



Elves-they have great reflexes and dexterity. They also have a high penalty to discipline, and a small penalty to strength. Their high bonus to reflexes gives them the best defense of any race. When combined with their high dexterity, it makes them able to swing weapons more quickly than any other race, except for halflings, which they equal in speed. Their penalty to strength however, gives only a +20 to their AS when that stat reaches 100, rather than the normal +25.



Half Elves-they share traits of both elves and humans. No significant penalties, and a little bit of elven swiftness.



Dark Elves-they are quick like their lighter cousins, but physically weaker.



Sylvankind-these are elves who spend most of their time in the forest as their ancestors did not build cities like others of their kind. They are quick, but not as quick as ordinary elves. They have few penalties, and are nearly as adaptable as humans.



Giantmen-these can be strong and sturdy warriors with many, many health points. They are of a nomadic culture, accustomed to severe climates and many hardships. They have great bonuses to strength, giving them a +40 to AS when the stat reaches 100, but suffer an aura penalty, making them a bit more susceptible to elemental magic.



Dwarves-the short mountain-dwellers are nearly as strong as the giants, and almost as many health points. They have an innate resistance to magic and poisons.



Halflings-the smallest of races is extremely dexterous and has good reflexes. They can swing weapons just as quickly as elves, but they suffer a huge penalty to strength, which results in only a +5 to their AS when that stat reaches 100.



Below are the statistic bonuses for each race. A +0 means that the stat will have a maximum bonus of +25 that is achieved when the stat reaches 100. All calculations below are made based on that +25 bonus, so, for example, a +15 below would mean that the stat will have a maximum bonus of +40, and a –20 means that it would have a maximum bonus of +5. The HPF column is the number of hit points gained with each training in physical training, and the max column is the racial maximum for hit points (add your constitution bonus to this to get your character’s maximum).



Race CO DE DI LO IN ST RE CH WI AU HPF Max
Human +0 +0 +0 +5 +5 +5 +0 +0 +0 +0 6 150

Giantman +10 -5 +0 +0 -5 +15 -5 +5 +0 -5 7 200

Half-Elf +0 +5 -5 +0 +0 +0 +10 +5 +0 +0 5 130

Sylvankind +0 +5 -5 +0 +0 +0 +5 +5 +0 +5 5 130

Dark Elf -5 +10 -10 +0 +5 +0 +5 -5 +5 +10 5 120

Elf +0 +5 -20 +0 +0 -5 +15 +15 +0 +5 5 130

Dwarf +15 +0 +10 +5 +0 +10 -5 -10 +0 -10 6 140

Halfling +10 +15 -5 +5 +10 -20 +10 -5 +0 -5 4 100



I myself am an elf, purely for role-playing purposes. Each of the races is specialized in their own area. Pick the one that you like, or if you can't decide between a remaining few, pick the one you feel will help you to benefit the most from your chosen style of role-play.



2-Stats



As anyone will tell you, try to get one roll in the 90's, three in the 80's and the rest over 35. They should all add to over 620. Placing them is a bit different.



Listed below are the growth intervals for each race of the warrior profession:



Race CON DEX DIS LOG INT STR REF CHR WIS AUR
Dark Elf 28 30 20 10 8 30 35 15 15 15

Dwarf 35 20 25 10 10 35 25 13 18 15

Elf 25 30 15 15 12 30 32 10 17 20

Giantman 35 23 20 10 10 35 28 15 15 15

Half-Elf 30 27 18 10 10 32 32 17 15 15

Halfling 35 30 15 8 10 25 35 18 15 15

Human 32 25 20 10 12 32 30 15 15 15

Sylvan 28 30 15 10 10 25 35 20 15 18



The higher the number, the more quickly the stat will grow. There are quite a few different methods of placement.



Maxing: Making sure you will achieve your highest potential later, making you much more powerful. This will leave you quite weak in the beginning, but you will have more training points and higher stats at higher levels (by higher I mean 50+). To do this, put your highest numbers in the stats with the lowest growth intervals. (I.E. A human warrior's logic stat is the slowest to grow, so put your highest number there).



Partly Maxing: This is the preferred method by most. The number of training points you receive at higher levels will not equal that of one who maxed, but they will be plenty. Take the two quickest growing stats, like strength and constitution, and put low to medium numbers in them. (I.E. Strength 58, Constitution 56).



Power Grabbing: Put your highest numbers in Strength, Constitution, and other stats that you use the most but grow most quickly. This is probably the best way to go for a warrior that trains in many things, such as three weapon types. The stats you use the most are the physical ones, and they will determine the number of physical training points you receive. As a warrior, you will use many of these, and wind up converting mental ones as well. However, with more physical training points in the beginning, you can train fully in a greater number of skills.



Remember, your stats directly determine training points which are the most important thing to any character who wishes to hunt, or do anything well. Also, keep in mind that you get a +10 to strength and constitution for being a warrior.



Before you go about placing them though, let me tell you how each will affect you.



Constitution: The bonus to this stat is added to your races max health points, to determine your total max hit points. It also determines your physical well-being, and resistance to certain types of disease, poison, and weather conditions.



Dexterity: This determines success with wands, dodging maneuvers, and such. When the bonus is combined with that of reflex, determines how many seconds, if any, are reduced from your attack round time, not to go under 5 [the formula is (dexterity bonus + reflex bonus) / 15. This is then rounded].



Discipline: This stat determines both mental, and physical training points. It is the total control over your body, helps in experience absorption, and is a major factor in berserking.



Strength: The feature of this stat that you will notice the most, is that the bonus to it is added to your AS. It also aids in determining encumbrance. It grows very quickly for a warrior.



Reflex: The bonus to this stat is added to your DS, which is my reason for suggesting it be placed high on the list. Also, see dexterity.



Charisma: Helps you with trading and war cries.



Logic: Along with intelligence and discipline, determines how much experience your mind can hold, and how fast it absorbs.



Intelligence: See logic.



Aura: This determines spirit points, your defense against elemental spells, and both mental and physical training points. It is very important.



Wisdom: Many relegate this to a low position, but its slow growth rate, and ability to add to our defense against spirit magic (a warrior's bane), make me think differently.



3-Training



I have listed below all of the skills, and my thoughts on each. I hope this helps you decide what to train in.



Two Weapon Combat: A nice skill if you want to have the advantage of two attacks at once. Unfortunately, they don't hit as hard as two-handed weapons, and don't give the advantage of a shield like single-handed weapons. There is something of an art and flash to it. Make sure if this is your calling that you double-train every year (level). It wasn't mine. Total Cost: 10/3



Armor Use: The main point of being a warrior in my opinion is to someday don that suit of full plate. I recommend doubling, but tripling once you can. Over training will lower encumbrance and negate armor penalties involved in tackling and disarming calculations. Moreover, it's good for DF Redux. Total Cost: 6/0 for doubling, 14/0 for tripling.



Shield Use: If you intend to swing a single-handed weapon, using a shield is the main advantage to it. Doubling each year is adequate, but tripling has its advantages. Total Cost: 6/0 for doubling, 14/0 for tripling.



Combat Maneuvers: Double every year no matter what. This helps with MANY, MANY things, including maneuver attacks. It is costly, but you'll be glad you did it. Total Cost: 12/9



Edged Weapons: The most prevalent single-handed weapon type there is. Before the implementation of DF Redux, these were really the only way to go. Now, two-handed weapon users have it easier later on, but harder at first. Double train in this skill each year if you wish to use these. Total Cost: 6/3



Blunt Weapons: If you prefer blunt over edged, or wish to train in both, double train. The same comment about single-handed weapons under edged applies here as well. Total Cost: 6/3



Two-Handed Weapons: These are a wide variety of swords, axes, hammers, and such that are designed and balanced to be used with two hands. These are a nice advantage for a warrior, especially later on. Double train in these solely, or in addition to another weapon type. Total Cost: 12/3 (same as doubling in edged and shield).



Ranged Weapons: Great attack. These probably will not reach full potential until an engagement system is put in, which may very well be in the distant future. If you wish to be an archer, double train each year. Total Cost: 9/4



Thrown Weapons: These really aren't fully implemented, so information is sketchy at best. Once again, double train if it's your calling. Total Cost: 12/3



Pole-Arm Weapons: Weapons like lances, spears, pikes, etc. Like two-handed weapons they do immense damage, but most leave you without a shield. Double train if you like staffs and such. Total Cost: 12/3



Climbing: Helps you to go places without falling to your death. I recommend alternating every year with swimming. Total Cost: 2/0.5 (half every year, since you are alternating).



Swimming: Like climbing, helps you to get places, but this time, without drowning. Total Cost: 1.5/0 (half every year, since you are alternating).



Multi-Opponent Combat: Just implemented recently. Using the MSTRIKE verb, you can attack more than one creature at a time, with the maximum number of opponents determined by your training in this skill. Additionally, enough training will enable you to concentrate MSTRIKE on a single target, performing multiple attacks upon it, with the number of attacks based on training in this skill. It is a very good idea to at least single this skill. Total Cost: 5/2 for singling, 15/6 for doubling



Disarming Traps: Very good skill combined with bashing. Bashing is not very good if you die from a trap every time. Single train every year along with perception if you want to be able to see certain traps. Total Cost: 2/4



Picking Locks: Not very worthwhile due to bashing, but if you like the style of it, then by all means, single train. Total Cost: 2/4



Stalking and Hiding: Unfortunately, if you use a single-handed weapon, at later levels you will find it easier to ambush things from hiding. Single every year if single-handed weapons are your style, and you can stand the idea of hiding in the shadows. Try to bring it to doubling if you can. Total Cost for Singling: 3/2



Perception: Great skill. Helps you find treasure, hidden players or critters, and allows you to see certain things. Single every year. Total Cost: 0/3



Spell Research: In my honest opinion, this is not worth it. The great cost of this, and the fact that it decreases your DF Redux makes it a bad choice. There are so many out there that know spells and can give them to you if you choose to ask. Total Cost: 0/32 (presuming one spell every 5 years, which is what some recommend to warriors who get spells. Normal cost for once every level is 0/160).



Scroll Reading: A nice skill to supplement your fighting abilities. Some scrolls out there have very nice spells in them. Try to learn this skill every other year until you have a 62 in it. You can read many scrolls by then, or you can go further. Total Cost: 0/3.5 (due to the fact that you only need to save half each level).



Magic Item Use: Another nice skill to start on when you finish with scroll reading, or when points become available. You can decide to go to either 62, or 102. Train once every other year, in the same manner. Total Cost: 0/5 (due to the fact that you only need to save half each level).



Mana Sharing: This is a great skill that helps your magic-using friends, but expensive. You give them your mana, that you can't use, and they cast a few spells on you, or are able to continue hunting with you. Train once every three years if you feel you can afford the cost (usually starting after level 25). Total Cost: 0/8.33 (due to the fact that you only need to save one third each level).



Spell Aiming: You don't need this unless you cast elemental spells at your foes. You use weapons, and will surely never get any good spells to cast at opponents. Singling Cost: 5/25



Ambush: See stalking and hiding. This also helps with out in the open targeting, yet so does combat maneuvers, so if you can use a two-handed weapon later on, it is not truly necessary, but a very nice advantage to aiming. Singling is fine for aiming from the open, but if you want to do so from hiding, bring it up to doubling when points become available. Total Cost for Singling: 4/4



Physical Training: Adds to your health points. You reach a maximum, but the more training you have in this, the quicker your hit points will regenerate. Also, a great number of ranks in this skill will provide bonuses to berserking. Total Cost: 2/0 for singling, 6/0 for doubling, 14/0 for tripling



First Aid: This helps with stopping bleeding, and skinning. Not bleeding to death is nice, especially as a warrior. Skins are a great source of wealth, too. Single in this for good skinning and tending abilities, but double to be a great skinner. Total Cost: 1/3 for singling



Trading: This skill is not really a necessity, but very nice to have. It helps to talk down merchants. In addition, it helps you to appraise pelts. Cost for Singling: 0/4



Picking Pockets: A way of supplementing your income, but not very warrior-like Cost for Singling: 3/3



Brawling: A great skill. If you wish to use Voln Fu as a mainstay against the undead, then double train. If you wish to rely on your sword, single train, as it helps with defense when your weapon is sheathed. Singling Cost: 2/1



Do not look for one set training path. Pick skills that you feel are appropriate to your character. If you feel your character should use spears, do not swing a claidhmore just because it provides an advantage.



Most likely, you’ll notice that you do not have enough points to train in everything you wish to. However, skills that reach a point where you wish to stop (scroll reading, mana sharing, magic item use, and such) can be put off a bit until points build up. If you are still lacking, you’ll need to prioritize, or even drop something.



It is my personal recommendation that you train in more than one weapon type.



3a-Damage Factor Reduction (a.k.a. DF Redux or Redux)



Redux was a great benefit given to us warriors. It lessens the damage factor of all attacks against you, excluding spells on a CS/TD system. Don't expect to see it until you are in your early twenties.



Redux is granted by getting a certain number of primary and weapon ranks, that cancel out magical and age based modifiers. Learning spells decreases your Redux, and primary skills count much more than weapon ones. The formula for this is still not known accurately, but many assumptions have been made. We do, however, know which skills go into the formula:



Primary-
Two Weapon Combat
Armor Use
Combat Maneuvers

Shield Use

Climbing

Swimming

Multi-Opponent Combat

Ambush

Physical Training



Weapon-

Edged

Blunt

Two-Handed Weapons

Pole-Arm Weapons

Brawling



One who gets 8 primary, and 3 weapon ranks per level will start seeing Redux at level 23. This is the average. The more you train for Redux, the more effective it is. However, while you should train with Redux in mind, do not train solely for it, as it does increase logistically (you’ll gain smaller benefits from each step forward, so differences start to become more negligible the older you get).



4-The Warrior Guild



The warrior guild has branches opened in all towns. The cost for joining and being a member is very low. It is not an institution made to balance warriors. The skills are very useful, but you must be level 15 to join.



The six skills are Batter Barriers, Warrior Tricks, Disarm, Berserk, Tackle, and War Cries. Each has its own effect.



-Batter Barriers is for bashing open boxes.

-Warrior Tricks are mainly tricks, but there are some very nice abilities included like appraise.

-Disarm is used to disarm your opponent of his weapon.

-Berserk puts you in a frenzy where you continually attack every creature about with bonuses to AS.

-Tackle knocks your opponent off his feet, putting him at a disadvantage.

-War Cries have varying effects, such as putting opponents in offensive stance, temporarily raising defenses, and such.



Each skill has 63 ranks, and you can only gain a certain number of ranks per level. The formula for this is (level-4)/4. The first rank of each skill does not count towards your total. At 125 ranks in any number of skills, you have the option of becoming a guildmaster. Guildmasters have the advantage of gaining experience from various activities such as performing promotions and accepting dues, as well as granting two reps instead of one when aiding another in training.



My recommendation is to train in whichever skills fit your character. If you want the easiest time mastering all of them, though, try to get one rank of each skill, then master each in this order:



1. Tackle-This you will need a partner for, and it will require numerous reps against like-aged creatures. It is helpful to master before creatures become too difficult for a novice tackler to take down, and it is also the most useful skill. You can even use this to aid you in getting field reps off of creatures for other skills.

2. Disarm-This is similar to tackling in the reason why it is placed early. In fact, these two skills can be switched if you would prefer to master disarming first. Now with breakage, this skill has even more of a benefit as a weaponless creature cannot shatter your blade with its attack.

3. War Cry-By now, your charisma has probably increased. This will help you with successfully performing a war cry. Also, this is still early, and the opponents you will use this against for field reps will not be too difficult at this time.

4. Berserk-This skill can definitely wait until this point. Simply put, good DF Redux helps immensely with getting berserk reps against like-aged opponents.

5. Warrior Tricks-While these are mainly for role-playing, some of the abilities granted are very useful, like roll, feint, appraise, stance perfection, and sheath making, so you might want to get a few ranks in this between other skills. You’ll only need to do a few of these against like-aged opponents, and if you have trouble, you can always trade those in for a different task.

6. Batter Barriers-This skill requires no reps against like-aged creatures whatsoever, so there is no greater degree of difficulty if you wait. Also, unless you train in disarming traps, you will probably have trouble disarming the traps on most boxes.



5-Armor



What I have provided below is a table detailing the various statistics of the different Armor Groups and sub-groups available.



AsG EHP SHP MHP AP RA SR AoP


Clothing:

Robes, etc. 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 Varies


Leather:

Light Leather 5 0 0 0 0 0 0 T
Full Leather 6 0 0 0 0 1 20 T, A

Reinforced Leather 7 2 0 0 5 2 40 T, A, L

Double Leather 8 4 0 5 8 2 40 T, A, L, H, N



Scale:

Leather Breastplate 9 5 4 3 5 2 40 T

Cuirboulli Leather 10 7 5 5 7 4 80 T, A

Studded Leather 11 8 6 5 10 6 120 T, A, L

Brigandine Armor 12 10 8 15 13 6 120 T, A, L, H, N



Chain:

Chain Mail 13 12 8 9 12 7 140 T

Double Chain Mail 14 14 10 10 14 8 160 T, A

Augmented Chain Mail 15 15 11 10 16 8 160 T, A, L

Chain Hauberk 16 20 15 25 18 9 180 T, A, L, H, N



Plate:

Metal Breastplate 17 22 18 26 20 10 200 T

Augmented Breastplate 18 24 20 28 25 11 220 T, A

Half Plate Armor 19 26 22 30 30 12 240 T, A, L

Full Plate Armor 20 30 27 35 35 13 260 T, A, L, H, N



Let me explain what all of those numbers mean:



AsG-Armor Subgroup: Nothing more than a number used to refer to the type of armor.



EHP-Elemental Hindrance Percentage: This is the chance, in percent, that an attempt at casting a spell of an elemental nature will fail in the given armor.



SHP-Spiritual Hindrance Percentage: This is the chance, in percent, that an attempt at casting a spell of a spiritual nature will fail in the given armor.



MHP-Mental Hindrance Percentage: This is the chance, in percent, that an attempt at casting a spell of a mental nature, such as a bard’s song, will fail in the given armor.



AP-Action Penalty: A penalty added to actions such as avoiding maneuvers, climbing, skinning, swimming, standing up, and such. These are the minimum values that are reached when fully trained for a given armor type.



RA-Roundtime Adder: The number of seconds added to your normal attacking time.



SR-Skill Required: The amount of skill in armor use required in order to negate the roundtime penalties, and additional action penalties over what is listed for the armor type. While skill rounds to the nearest twenty points for roundtime negation, this is NOT so for training off additional action penalties.



AoP-Area of Protection: These are the areas that a given piece of armor protects.



T=Torso

A=Arms

L=Legs

H=Head

N=Neck



Naturally, arms includes hands, and legs includes feet, so a suit of armor that is listed as protecting all five of these areas protects absolutely everything. A major mistake is thinking that areas not listed for a given armor type are unprotected. This is not true. For example, a metal breastplate covers the torso with plate, granting the entire body the damage factor of plate armor, and the AvD and CvA of a metal breastplate. However, the torso receives the critical injury multiplier of plate, while the limbs receive that of one group lower, which is chain.



The critical modifiers are as follows:



Skin/Clothing-3

Leather-5

Scale-7

Chain-9

Plate-11



These numbers represent the damage points an opponent must do to you before achieving a critical rank. For example, an attack that does 30 points of damage would achieve a rank 4 critical and its appropriate damage on someone in scale, but an attack that does 30 points of damage on someone in plate (which, incidentally, is harder to achieve due to a lower damage factor than scale), will only result in a rank 2 critical and its appropriate damage. This is considerably less.



6-Roleplaying



The most important thing to remember is that GemStone III is a role-playing game. Play your role well, and you'll have fun. If you do nothing but hunt, you'll soon find the game boring. Make goals for yourself, but don't make a goal to get to legend in three months. You'll miss everything the game has to offer if you do that.



A huge rant on role-playing can be found on my site at http://www.geocities.com/valentrus. Hopefully, you will find it helpful.



7-Parting Advice



The last thing I'm going to say is to just have fun. Don't be a giantman warrior if you like halflings. People respect you for your role-playing, not your AS, DS, or other stupid things like that.



If you are ever in need of advice, send mail to me at Valentrus@aol.com or visit my site at the above address. I am more than happy to help.



Valentrus Sarco

Of Ta’Vaalor