AUGY’S COMPLETE WIZARD GUIDE TO GEMSTONE III

By Augustinia Rosequeen

Last updated 7/18/2003

[NOTE: If you are viewing this guide in Microsoft Word, and you do not see a list of headings on the left side of your screen, you will find it easier to navigate by choosing the View Menu > Online Layout. Then choose View Menu > Document Map. Links will appear at the left side of your screen that will make it easier to navigate throughout the guide]


SUMMARY:

Some of the great perks of the wizardry profession include:

~ Casting fabulous disks that float in the air

~ Imbedding magical spells in items

~ Charging up items with spells

~ Hunting with wands

~ Calling a familiar animal to do your bidding

~ Enchanting weapons, shields, and armor

This guide will provide understanding of both practical and mystical ways of wizardry for the novice, apprentice, or accomplished wizard in modern times in Elanthia.



STAT ALLOCATION FOR WIZARDS

How Statistics Benefit Wizards

When creating your wizard, you will have up to 620 points to allocate between 10 statistics for your character. Briefly, here’s what each statistic does for a wizard:

CO Constitution – helps guard against disease, determines maximum health points, helps against some maneuver attacks

DE Dexterity – helps against bolt attacks, aids skinning, increases AS (Attack Strength)

RE Reflex – Helps with RT (Round Time), dodging maneuvers, and DS (Defense Strength)

ST Strength – Increases AS, helps reduce encumbrance (ability to carry more weight without being hindered)

LO Logic – determines maximum experience points one can hold

IN Intelligence – determines how fast one can absorb experience points

CH Charisma – helps with trading, helps with bard songs

WI Wisdom – determines amount of mana, helps with picking and disarming, determines CS (Casting Strength)

DI Discipline – mysterious but supposedly important statistic

AU Aura – Determines mana amount, CS for non-spirit circle attacks, helps with Mana Focus (a spell), and SP (Spirit Points) [Note: SP = Aura/10]

Allocation of Statistics

How you divide the 620 points among these 10 stats will determine how many training points you will get, and what kind of wizard you will be. More information about statistics is available at http://www.play.net/gs3/info/stats.asp

There are two statistics considered prime for a wizard: Aura and Intelligence. This means that you get a bonus of 10 points automatically for each of these statistics (20 total.) The basic rules for allocating your statistical points are as follows:

1) No stat may be under 20.

2) You may have up to 8 stats AT 70 (70x8=560 ;)

3) You may have four stats AT 71 or higher.

4) You may have 1 stat AT 91 or higher.

5) If you so choose, you can take the 4 stats from 3 and place them AT 90.

6) Your stat combination may not equal more than 620.

7) With optional reallocation, your PRIME stats MUST start AT LEAST 50. They will receive the +10 bonus, and thus you will start the game with your prime stats being AT LEAST 60.

How you divide up your stats will depend on which training path you want to follow. My best advice is to choose a training path, and then download a spreadsheet that allows you to see how your allocation will affect your character. This takes the guesswork out of it.

Here’s one little program where you can work on your stat allocation right online. It is easiest to use, but doesn’t give as much information as some of the spreadsheets below:

http://home.mchsi.com/~cphillips73/StatCruncher/StatCruncher.html

Here’s a character trainer spreadsheet you can download:

http://maldraedior.com/gemstone

Here’s another link that has several character manager spreadsheets to download:

http://home.attbi.com/~kulbaen/stats.html#Character%20Manager%20Download



WIZARD TRAINING PATHS

Balanced/Diversified Wizard

Pros: Able to use both weapons and magic effectively during early training

Cons: Average spellcaster, ineffective with weapons as an older wizard

The basic training for a balanced wizard includes the following:

PRIMARY:

8 – 15 ranks of armor total

40 – 50 ranks shield training

50 – fully singled edged or blunt weapons training

10 ranks of swimming total

20 ranks of climbing total

Min # ranks physical training to reach maximum HP (Health Points)

2 ranks spell aiming per level

2 spells per level, 3 spells when training points permit

102 Mana Share (minimum)

SECONDARY:

Magic item use (MIU) helps you use wands, scrolls, and magic items

Scroll reading – can’t live without it these days

Disarming helps you see traps and disarm them

Perception helps you see hidden paths and traps better

First Aid helps you skin critters and heal faster with herbs

0 – 8 ranks multi-opponent combat (MoC) for balls spells

The basic wizard will allocate beginning statistics for maximum growth throughout his training. Be sure to put enough ST that you can carry treasure effectively, and enough CO that you won’t bleed to death every time you are hit.

Pure Spellcaster

Pros: Strong spellcasting ability in later training

Cons: Difficult and expensive to gain levels in early training

The pure spellcaster training for a wizard includes the following:

PRIMARY:

8 – 15 ranks of armor total

40 ranks shield training total

40 – 50 ranks edged (helps with parry defense)

10 ranks of swimming total

20 ranks of climbing total

Min # ranks physical training to reach maximum HP (Health Points)

2 ranks spell aiming per level

2 spells per level, 3 spells whenever points permit

0 – 8 ranks multi-opponent combat (MoC) for balls spells

150 ranks Mana Share

SECONDARY:

Magic item use (MIU) necessary for wands and many other

Scroll reading, can’t live without it

Disarming helps you see traps and disarm them

Perception helps you see hidden paths and traps better

First Aid helps you skin critters and heal faster with herbs

The pure spellcaster will place higher beginning statistics in WI, AU, DE, and ST in order to make the most of his magical abilities.



Warrior Wizard

Pros: Above average proficiency with weapons for a wizard at all levels

Cons: Below average proficiency with use of magic and spells

The warrior wizard training includes the following:

PRIMARY:

15 - 35 ranks of armor total

1 rank 2 handed weapons or polearms per level

1 rank per level of Combat Maneuvers (as much as possible)

Min # ranks physical training to reach maximum HP (Health Points)

2 ranks spell aiming per level

2 spells per level (as much as possible)

SECONDARY:

10 ranks of swimming total

20 ranks of climbing total

Mana share

Perception

Scroll Reading

Magic Item Use

Multi-Opponent Combat (up to 8 ranks)

The warrior wizard will allocate higher beginning statistics for ST, CO, RE, DE to facilitate his use of weapons. Scroll reading and Magic Item Use are so important for so many things these days, that it’s a good idea to work in some of this after you’ve got your basics and have a few (very few for the warrior mage) training points left over.



GUIDE TO CHOOSING RACE

One of the most traditional choices of race for a wizard is Dark Elf. The main reason is that it has the most stat bonuses that are beneficial to wizards. For a pure spellcaster wizard, this may still be the best choice. Some disadvantages include a slower than average ability to regain SP (Spirit Points), a negative bonus in CO which means that most dark elves don’t have a lot of HP (Health Points,) and some problems with race discrimination, especially in the Elven. A second choice for a basic or spellcasting wizard might be human, because it has a slight bonus for strength and no negative bonuses at all. Another good choice might be the sylvan race, which has a few good bonuses including AU (one of the prime statistics) and only one negative bonus in DI.

A warrior wizard may want to consider a different race, especially if they don’t plan to rely on spells much as a way of hunting. The giantman race offers the best bonus in strength, followed by dwarf, and then human. To review the statistical bonuses available to each race, please visit http://www.play.net/gs3/info/races/races.asp



WEAPONS AND ARMOR FOR WIZARDS

Weapons

The training cost for either OHE (One Hand Edged) or Blunt weapons is the same for a wizard. The best choice will depend on which race you choose. A blunt is a much heavier weapon to carry, so choose this only if you will have the strength to carry it around without extra encumbrance. This would be an excellent choice for a warrior wizard who wants to use blunts instead of polearms. The advantage of an OHE for a spellcasting wizard is that there are many light varieties available, such as a dagger. While not as effective as a weapon, it is a well known fact that carrying a weapon in your hand while casting spells can help with your DS (Defensive Strength) when you are in defensive stance (this is often referred to as “parry defense”.) So a spellcasting wizard will want to carry the lightest possible weapon.

Armor

Nearly all wizards find they can only afford the training to wear leather armor these days. Robes are great for role-playing, but offer very little real protection. It’s probably best to start out with light leather, because it offers a bit of protection, while it doesn’t slow down your RT (Round Time) when swinging a weapon. Most wizards will start out using a weapon to kill small creatures and gain experience, because wands are very expensive and not generally affordable to the young wizard unless you come from a rich and generous family.

Once you’ve gained eight ranks in armor training, you can move up to full leather without additional time added to your RT. Full leather offers full body and head protection, and does not have any penalties for spell casting.

If you want additional protection, you can train up to fifteen ranks in armor and wear double leather. With this training, you will have four- percent hindrance when casting spells while wearing the leather. Spell hindrance means your spell will fail four percent of the time. Note that there is NO hindrance with double leather for a wizard when casting any Minor Elemental spell.

A warrior wizard may be willing to wear armor with a higher spell hindrance since he plans to rely mostly on his weapon.



WANDS FOR WIZARDS

Finding Wands

Unless you’re very proficient with a weapon, you will probably find the need to use wands for much of your early training. You can find them on monsters, buy them at the pawnshop, or buy them from other players. Ask around about the going rate. Many folks will donate wands as a gift for casting defensive spells or floating disks on them. You might even be able to find a generous older wizard who will duplicate your fresh wands, giving you two for the price of one. Just be careful trying to duplicate one that’s already been duplicated, or it will go poof! Last but not least, you can get blank rods imbued by a generous ranger and have an older wizard imbed spells in them for you.

Training Effect on Wand Use

You will find the more ranks you gain in Magic Item Use, the more proficient you will be with wands. Your training in Spell Aiming will also aid in your proficiency with how effective the wands are, just as it determines how effective you were to cast the spell using your own mana. Some wands you won’t be able to use effectively at all until your training increases. Additionally, you’ll find that some wands work better on some monsters, while other wands work better on others. Ask some other wizards or do a little experimenting to see what works best.

Effect of Health on Wand Use

You may find it difficult or impossible to wave wands (or cast spells) if you are wounded. Be sure to carry some healing herbs along.

Encumbrance and Wands

Encumbrance (how much fluff you are carrying and wearing) will have an effect on how long it takes to wave a wand. If your round time is too long, try putting some stuff in your locker or getting rid of it.

Wizard Wands

Iron/Silver 901 Minor Shock Non Crumbly

Aqua 903 Minor Water Crumbly

Gold 906 Minor Fire Non Crumbly

Slender Blue ### Minor Cold Crumbly

Metal 907 Major Cold Non Crumbly

Crystal ### Major Acid Crumbly

Oak 108 Unstun Crumbly



SPELL USE AND DURATION

Spell Circles

Wizard Spells 900 series Unique to wizards

Major Elemental 500 series Unique to wizards

Minor Elemental 400 series Wizard, Rogue, Warrior, Bard, Sorcerer

What Circles Should I Train In?

The question I am probably asked most often is “Which spell circles should I focus on?” There has never been a simple answer to this question, and it has even gotten harder to answer over time. The best answer I could probably give is that you need them all. But, that’s not a very practical answer.

Wizard Spell Circle

The simplest answer is that if you’re going to be a spellcasting wizard, you must have the wizard spells in order to effectively hunt. You also get a few nice defensive spells (905, 911, 913, 919). I’d recommend training in the Wizard spell circle at least one train per level up to 19 to start out with, adding more ranks as you even out your other circles later. The more ranks you have in this circle, the more effective your 913 will be. This circle also helps with call wind, familiar gate, summoning pets, and enchanting.

Major Elemental Spell Circle

At the same time, with more spells going to self-cast only, and so many factors depending on ranks in the Major Elemental spell circle. I’d recommend focusing on this circle to start out with. You will get some nice defensive spells (503, 507, 508 – all self-cast only), two nice AS spells (509, 513), a great attack spell (518), plus the ability to cast disks. Mana Leach (516) can also be a powerful tool to help you get enough mana to finish your hunts with a full mind. The more ranks you have in this circle, the more effective your 513 will be. Ranks in this circle also help with certain ball spells, with charging items, and with the Mana Leech spell (516.) I would recommend training at least one train per level up to level 18 to start, adding more ranks as you even out your other circles later.

Minor Elemental Spell Circle

As for the Minor Elemental circle, for the first 18 to 20 levels, you can always get someone else to cast silvers, brights, and brills on you, as these are not self-cast only spells. You will want to start adding this to your training at about level 18 or 19, because you will need Elemental Targeting (425) and Elemental Barrier (430) as you progress in training. The more ranks you have in this circle, the more effective these two spells will be. I would recommend doubling in this circle after you’ve reached 19 ranks wizard and 18 ranks major elemental, until you have the full 30 spells. This should take you up to about level 29 or so. I don’t see a reason to get more than 74 ranks total in this circle, as the two spells I mentioned will max out at 74.

Spellcaster Mage Spell Training

Once you have reached 18 ranks major, 19 ranks wizard, and 30 ranks elemental, bring up your major and wizard until you’ve evened out the three circles. From there, try to keep them even because they all have powerful benefits when you increase ranks in them. Never stop training in spells. Always get 2 spells each training and two ranks of spell aiming. Always get an extra spell rank if you have enough training points.

War Mage Spell Training

On the other hand, if you’re planning on being a warrior mage, I’d recommend stopping the major circle after 9 ranks (509), and then waiting to continue this circle until you’ve reached level 30 in the minor circle, as 513 has a negative bonus to you when swinging a weapon. You will probably have to skip a spell rank here and there to get as much other training as you will need, and you will probably never be able to triple train in spells. I still recommend that you never fail to get at least 2 ranks of spell aim per training.

Spell Duration

Formula: Base Duration + (Additional Seconds x # Spells Known

in Spell Circle) = total number of seconds per cast

Defensive Spells

SPELLNAME NUM AS DS TD CUM BASESEC ADDSEC SELFONLY

Silvers 401 +5 +5 Y 1200 60 No

Brights 406 +10 +10 Y 1200 60 No

Brills 414 +25 +25 Y 1200 60 No

Mass Brills 419 +25 +25 Y 1200 60 Group

Targeting 425 * N 900 30 Yes

Barrier 430 ** ** N 900 30 Yes

Blurs 503 +10 Y 1200 60 No

Deflection 507 +20 Y 600 15 Yes

Bias 508 +20 Y 600 30 Yes

Strength 509 +15 Y 600 30 No

Focus 513 *** Y 600 30 No***

Refraction 905 +20 Y 600 15 Yes

Mass Blurs 911 +10 Y 900 30 Group

Mel’s Aura 913 **** **** Y 1200 60 Yes

Invisibility 916 N 1200 30 Yes

Shields 919 +50 Y 1200 30 Yes

* Elemental Targeting Formula (425)

25 + (Minor Elemental spell ranks known over 25 / 2) = AS bonus (Max 50)

25 + (Minor Elemental spell ranks known over 25 / 2) = ECS bonus

(Max 50)

13 + (Minor Elemental spell ranks known over 25 / 4) = Other Spell CS

bonus (Max 25)

+0 Bonus for Spirit CS

** Elemental Barrier Formula (435)

30 + (Minor Elemental spell ranks known over 30 / 2) = Defensive bonus

(+50 Max DS & ETD bonus, +37 Max HTD bonus, +25 Max STD bonus)

***Elemental Focus Formula (513)

20 + (Major Elemental spell ranks known over 13 / 2) = Spell AS Bonus

There is no maximum bonus

Spell also gives automatic -40 bonus to physical AS

Duration is shorter when not self-cast

****Melgorehn’s Aura Formula (913)

20 + (Wizard spell ranks known over 13 / 3) = DS/ETD Bonus (No max)

Mana cost is 13 + 1 for each bonus pt

Attack Spells

Major Shock 901 Elem Blast 409 Sleep 501

Minor Water 903 Elem Wave 410 Slow 504

Minor Acid 904 Weapon Deflect 412 Hand Tonis 505

Minor Fire 906 Elem Saturation 413 Mana Leech 516

Major Cold 907 Elem Strike 415 Cone Light 518

Major Fire 908 Elem Dispel 417 Tele Disarm 519

Tremors 909 Major Wave 435 Meteor 525

Major Shock 910

Call Wind 912

Fire Storm 914

Weapon Fire 915

Boil Earth 917

For more detailed description of attack spells go to

http://www.play.net/gs3/info/spells/home.asp

Mana Leech

This is a CS (Casting Strength). For a successful cast, you get a return of mana at the cost of one mana, assuming your CS is high enough to ward the critter. If your spell fails, the mana cost is 16. The amount of mana returned to you will depend on the strength of your CS vs. the critter’s TD, as well as a random roll. The maximum amount of mana you can get is equal to your total number of spell ranks in the Major Elemental spell circle.

Call Wind vs. Ewave

Casting Ewave (410) knocks down your opponents, as well as any adventurers in the room who are not in your group. The effectiveness of this spell depends on your level of training vs. the level of training of the opponents or people.

Call Wind also (912) also knocks down your opponents, as well as any adventurers in the room who are not in your group. The effectiveness of this spell depends on your level of ranks in wizard spell circle vs. the level of the opponents or people. One advantage of call wind is that it can also reduce the stance of your opponent, sometimes even to offensive.

Weapon Fire

Weapon Fire (915) is a unique spell. Once you have learned this spell, you cannot use it until you receive further instruction. You may get this instruction by reading Telchor’s spellbook at the Pavillion in Wehnimer’s Landing. This is a leftover requirement from an old quest.

Ball Spells

Ball Spells in the wizard spell training circles include major cold (907) and major fire (908.) A ball spell has a burst at the end that may give additional damage to the critter. Also, there’s a chance that the explosion may hit other critters in the room. Training in MoC (Multi-Opponent Combat) is said to increase those chances. Although it is said that only somewhere between one and five ranks of MoC is needed, the expense of that training vs. the return in damage to critters may not be worth the cost for most wizards

Utility Spells

Presence 402 Improves ability to see hidden and invisible people

Lock Lore 403 Improves ability to pick locks (more effective when self cast) Note: Effectiveness depends on picking ranks

Trap Lore 404 Improves ability to disarm traps (more effective when self cast) Note: Effectiveness depends on disarming ranks

Elemental Detection 405 Allows caster to see a list of spells worn by the target and their approximate remaining duration. See section on Elemental Detection for additional uses.

Unlock 407 Unlocks containers and doors Note: Effectiveness depends on Aura and level of training, enhanced with 403

Disarm 408 Disarms trapsNote: Effectiveness depends on Aura and level of training, enhanced with 404

Elemental Blade 411 Temporary +20 magical bonus to a weapon (free of other magic) with crits of heat, lightning, cold, or fire depending on the attuned element of the caster

Piercing Gaze 416 See into, behind, or under containers. Possibility of seeing trap present on container

Mana Focus 418 Creates a semi-node in the area which lasts 1 min per level of the caster, or until caster leaves room

Magic Item Creation 420 Used to imbed spells in magical items. See section on Imbedding.

Spell Store 502 Temporarily holds a prepared spell ready to cast. Limited duration.

Haste 506 Reduces round time with a minimum of 1 secondFormula for self-cast: 25-50% reduction depending on total Major Elemental ranks. Non self-cast formula: Maximum of 25% reduction. Duration: 1 min.

Unpain 510 Increases Health Points up to 50 max (no more than the targets total maximum) for 5 minutesNOTE: If cast more than once, target will only lose the last Health Points gained by the spell when it wears off, with maximum of 50 lost when spell falls

Floating Disk 511 Creates a Floating Disk container that will follow the target. See section on Floating Disks.

Charge Item 517 Adds magical charges to a magical item. See section on Charging.

Duplicate 918 Duplicates certain items such as most wands, blue crystals. See section on Duplication.

Call Familiar 920 Summons an animal to be at the bidding of the caster. See section on Familiars.

Enchant 925 Enchants weapons, shields, and armor to add a magical bonus. See section on Enchanting.

Familiar Gate 930 Opens a magical portal between the caster and his familiar animal. See section on Familiars.



FLOATING DISKS

Disk Capacity

Disks hold 8 items or 500 lbs, whichever comes first. The box counts as one item, the silvers count as one item, and each additional gem or item in the box counts as one item. Thus, a box with some silvers and a gem inside automatically counts as three items. You can cast 416 (Piercing Gaze) at a box to see what’s inside without unlocking it.

Disk Duration

A floating disk will follow a person indefinitely until they disconnect, or DISMISS the disk. You can’t dismiss someone else’s disk. If you disconnect accidentally, your disk will return to you if you reconnect promptly. Once you leave the lands, after a short time it disintegrates and everything in it falls to the ground, making it up for grabs for whoever finds it, or the janitor will clean it up. On a side note, you can also TURN your own disk to dump it’s contents on the ground without dismissing it.

Colored Disks

Wizards always get a random colored disk when casting 511 on themselves or another wizard. You can control the color of the disk by holding a colored gem in your left hand when casting the spell. A red spinel, for example, will get you a red disk. The gem disappears when you cast the disk.

Depending on what element you are attuned to, you may get a descriptive disk instead of a random color. Since a wizard is attuned to only one element for life, you will only get one description. If you cast a disk on another wizard, they will either get a random colored disk or one attuned to their own element (not yours.)

Attunement

Sparkling Disk Wizard is attuned to the lightning element

Fiery Red Disk Wizard is attuned to the fire element

Icy Blue Disk Wizard is attuned to the cold element



Floating Disk was updated so that you can now CAST or CAST <name> to control whether you get a normal disk or one with a fancy extra color/description.



DUPLICATING

Once you learn the Duplicate spell (918), you can use it to duplicate items. All wands are able to be duplicated, with the exception of ranger-made wands. You must be holding the item in your right hand, with nothing in the left hand. Items that have already been partially used may not be duplicated.

A few items other than wands are able to be duplicated, such as blue crystals and ruby amulets. Using 405 will usually tell you if an item is not suitable for duplicating. If you try to duplicate an item that is not suitable, it will either go up in a puff of smoke, or nothing will happen at all. Wands or items that have already been duplicated will always go up in smoke.

ELEMENTAL DETECTION (405)

You gesture at a smooth bone wand.

You sense that the wand is a magic item that holds a spell that seems familiar. You are unable to identify the specific spell.

The wand is fresh and unduplicated. It contains a spell that is not in the wizard spell circle, but exists in another known spell circle (such as ranger, cleric, etc.) Sometimes you know what circle by the very nature of the item, such as the bone wand here is known to be a sorcerer spell.

You gesture at a smooth bone wand.

You sense that the wand is a magic item that holds a spell that seems familiar. You are unable to identify the specific spell and it is not well suited for duplicating.

The wand has already been duplicated. It contains a spell that is not in the wizard spell circle, but exists in another known spell circle.

You gesture at a crystal turtle miniature.

You sense that this is a magical item. There seems to be no spells or charges but the flows of essence are strangely attracted to it.

The miniature is a blank imbeddable item. It can be imbedded with a spell using Magic Item Creation (420.) See section on Imbedding for more info.

You gesture at a white crystal.

You sense that the crystal is a magic item that holds the spell "Strength" with a couple of charges and it is not well suited for duplicating.

The crystal contains the spell Strength, has 2 charges, and cannot be duplicated. If the spell is in the wizard spell circle you should be able to identify it with 405.

You gesture at a heavy quartz orb.

The essence swirls as it flows in a fog of chaotic patterns around the orb and it is not well suited for duplicating.

Occasionally an item will give this message even though it holds a spell. Sometimes the reason is that the spell it contains is not a known spell in any spell circle, such as the quartz orb spell. Again the message confirms the item can’t be duplicated.

You gesture at a slender blue wand.

You sense that the wand is a magic item with an unknown spell.

The wand contains an unknown number of charges of a spell that isn’t known in any spell circle.

You gesture at a small rose.

The essence swirls as it flows in a fog of chaotic patterns around the rose. You can't make any sense from the patterns.

Any item that does not contain any spells and is not suited for imbedding gives this message. These items are generally called “fluff,” although you will get the same message when casting at weapons, armor, and leather except when it has been enchanted by you (or possibly by another wizard after the enchanting update.)

You gesture at Augienna.

You detect the following spells on Augienna:

Elemental Defense I with a great amount of time remaining.

Elemental Defense II with a lot of time remaining.

Spirit Warding I with a fair amount of time remaining.

Strength with some time remaining.

Spirit Warding II with very little time remaining.

Great: One to four hours

Lot: About an hour

Fair: About half an hour

Some: Less than half an hour

Little: Less than 10 minutes

You will find that the more ranks you gain in the minor elemental spell circle you have, the better you will get at determining the remaining duration of spells on a person. With little training, you may not see or recognize the spells, or you may see the spell but no time indicator.



FAMILIARS

Summoning Familiars

An animal that is native to the area can be magically leashed to you to do your bidding. You can call a familiar either by casting the spell 920, or by summoning it.

Prep 920

Summon black cat

Or:

Prep 920

Cast

The more ranks you have in the wizard spell circle, the better you will get at summoning the type of animal you wish for. Keep in mind that if the animal you are calling is not native to the area you are in, you may still have a difficult (or impossible) time summoning that type of animal even if you are well trained.

Also, it is easier to get a type of animal than it is to get a color of animal. For example, it is easier to just “summon cat” than it is to “summon black cat.” Using the first, you could get a calico cat, a long-haired cat, a white cat, or you may get lucky and get the color you wanted. (Note: You can’t summon an animal in a color you wouldn’t see on that animal, such as a “green cat.”) Using the second, you may be more likely to get a fox. Again, you’re more likely to get some other animal anyway if you are under trained in the wizard spell circle.

Types of Animals

You may not summon an animal that doesn’t exist, or isn’t available as a familiar. A familiar is not the same as a rangers animal companion, so don’t expect to summon a “dusky mastiff,” for example. If you just “cast” the spell, you’ll get a random animal, and you can learn what animals are native to the area.

There are two basic types of familiars: the flying type and the walking type. Don’t expect to summon a hawk if you are indoors somewhere. Flying familiars can sometimes go to areas that another type animal could not reach because of physical limitations such as bodies of water. A walking animal can also get into buildings and places a flying animal can’t go. If you need a specific one, you can either “summon” it, if you have enough training, or you can just keep trying until you get a suitable one. Just dismiss the familiar and cast the spell again (see below for syntax to dismiss). If you’re not having any luck, try moving to another location to cast the spell.

Commanding your Familiar

There are many different commands available to use to get your pet to do your bidding. For a complete list in game, type FAMILIAR. To direct your pet to do something, use the following syntax:

SYNTAX:

Tell familiar go north

Any direction, door, hole, etc. Sometimes you will find it is prevented from going.

Tell familiar sleep

Some pets are annoying, but if you die it may not wake up to help you if sleeping. Due to game mechanics, occasionally, a familiar will leave the game even if it’s magical time has not run out if you tell it to sleep in a very inactive room.

Tell familiar sit

Good for getting a flying pet to land, or one running around may be less annoying

Tell familiar get <item>

It will pick up items small enough to carry around, but may drop them

Tell familiar drop <item>

When you want it to drop the item

Tell familiar watch

Will begin to watch all goings on in the room and report back to you. This can be very annoying if the room is busy. You may want to open a separate Familiar Window to watch. Doesn’t report if familiar is in the same room you are in.

Tell familiar stop watching

The report of activities from the room stops.

Tell familiar look

Reports to you a description of the room and its occupants. Will appear in Familiar Window if open. If it is in the process of finding someone it cannot report to you until it has stopped “rushing around the countryside in search of so-and-so.”

Tell familiar say <text to say>

It will say whatever you want. It must be difficult for it to talk because there is a 5 second round time. Be aware that it can’t talk and search for someone at the same time.

Tell familiar find <person>

Begins to look for the person if he is in game. If not it says “Find who?” If the person is too far away you the familiar will be frustrated and not seek the person. If the person is has the spell Unpresence cast on them the familiar cannot find them and may even think they are not in game. If they are in an area the familiar cannot go, such as at a table, it will continue to search indefinitely, and catch up to them when they move out of that area. The familiar will continue to follow the person until you call it off. If the person is invisible or hiding, the familiar will react in the same way as when the person is in an inaccessible area.

Tell familiar return

By default the familiar will follow you around. But in the case that you’ve given a command to it to stay somewhere else or follow someone else, this command tells the familiar to return to you. If you are, or become hidden, invisible, or otherwise inaccessible, it will continue to look for you indefinitely.

Tell familiar stay

Anchors the familiar to the room it is in. If you enter the character manager, the pet will forget it’s command and return to the room you are in. If you are disconnected, the animal will probably not remember where you told it to stay unless you tell it really quickly after you reconnect. The familiar will refuse to stay if it is already in the process of searching for you or someone else.

Tell familiar leave

When you want to dismiss your familiar

Tell cat grin

Only cats can grin. However, you can use the name of your animal in any command instead of the word “familiar.”

Tell familiar fly/land

Airborne pets can also use these commands.

Familiars and Wizard Death

A familiar can be a handy friend to have if you have died. No matter what it was doing when you died (except possibly sleeping), it will try to find a cleric to rescue you. It may come see where you are first, then rush off to the nearest node to inform everyone that you’ve died (sometimes I think this can be embarrassing.) It will also seek out a cleric in the area and tell them where you are and request help. Folks are usually good about rescuing fellow adventurers anyway, however, I have found that I often get help quicker if my annoying pet is bothering a nearby cleric.

Refreshing the Familiar Spell

The familiar will only stay for a limited amount of time. To keep it around longer, you can refresh the spell. To do so, either cast or summon the spell again. Refreshing will have no affect on whatever command(s) you have already given your familiar. Summoning a different animal will not change your familiar to a different animal, but it will refresh the spell.

Familiar Gate

If you already have a familiar in game, you can use the spell 930 to open a Familiar Gate window to the animal. The animal must not be moving when you cast the spell. Just prep and cast the spell and a mist will open up. You and your group or anyone else in the room can transport to where the familiar is by stepping into the mist one at a time. Once you have stepped through, the mist will close, so if you’re planning on bringing your group along, be sure to let them go first.

There are some areas that you familiar can go that you cannot gate to. You may even be able to open a gate but not be able to step through it. Or, you may get injured trying to cast the spell because of the location of the familiar.

This is a fairly difficult spell to cast. A failed cast can result in injury, or even death. If you’re planning on using this spell, it’s a good idea to carry herbs that can be used to heal down a major nerve or head injury, because you may find yourself stranded if you become injured by a failed gate, and are then unable to cast. The more ranks of training you gain in the wizard spell circle, the easier it will be to use this spell. As you gain in training, the injury is less frequent and usually less severe, but I don't think the possibility ever really goes away.

Protecting Your Familiar

Unlike the ranger’s animal companion, you cannot cast defensive spells on your familiar. It is at risk of injury or even death in combat areas. There is no known way of protecting your familiar from threats at this time.

Other People’s Familiars

You can often tell if an animal is a familiar just by looking at it. If you are good at using elemental detection, you can use this spell to see who the animal belongs to. If elemental detection tells you that it isn’t wearing any spells (or is wearing xxx spells), then it isn’t a familiar. It is a ranger’s animal companion.

Losing Contact with Your Familiar

Obviously, this spell lasts for only a limited time. When the time runs out, you will lose contact with your pet. Also, if you are travelling, once you get out of range of your familiar you will also lose contact, and the animal will be loosed from your magical leash. This is true even if the animal is following you. Once you cross over an invisible barrier into another area of Elanthia, the pet can’t follow you and will leave. If you want to release contact on purpose with your familiar, you can tell your familiar to LEAVE.



IMBEDDING

Imbedding Syntax

At any time, you can type the word IMBED and receive the following instructions in game:

Syntax: IMBED <spell#> IN <item> USING <activator> FOR <#charges> CHARGES

<spell#> must be a known spell.

<item> must have been prepared with Imbed Spell.

<activator> may be 'wave', 'raise', 'tap', or 'rub'.

<#charges> may be as many charges as you could cast the spell

using the Mana Points you have available.

You have five minutes from the time Imbed Spell is initially cast on an item to actually imbed a spell in that item. You must hold the item that a spell is being imbedded into in your hand.

Checking Item for Imbedding Compatibliity

First, always cast 405 at the item to be sure that it is ready to be imbedded.

Example of item ready to be imbedded:

Example (405):

You gesture at a diamond stickpin.

You sense that this is a magical item. There seems to be no spells or charges but the flows of essence are strangely attracted to it.

Imbedding an Item

Next, cast 420 (Magic Item Creation) at the item. Now it is ready to be imbedded with a spell from one of your known circles.

Example Syntax:

Imbed 503 in rod using raise for 15 charges.

Never use the word “my” in the sentence (such as Imbed 503 in “my” rod). This will cause an error. Also, if you mix up the syntax sequence in any way, you will receive an error message saying you don’t have enough power. The solution is to reenter the message correctly. Just type IMBED if you can’t remember how it goes.

You can use “raise” or “tap” for any wand, rod, or similar item. You can use “tap” or “rub” for any wearable or hand held item such as a talisman. Note that anyone utilizing the item must have trained in Scroll Reading and Magic Item Use in order to be able to use the magical item once you’ve imbedded it. It’s always easier for someone to “tap” or “raise” an item than to “wave” or “rub” it.

Estimating Charges An Item Will Hold

In most cases, you will have to guess at the number of charges an item will hold. Most wands and “found” items will hold a maximum of 40 mana. To estimate the number of charges, divide the mana cost of the spell by the number of mana you think the item will hold.

Example Mana Estimate:

503 uses 3 mana per charge. We “guess” the item will hold 40 mana max. So 40/3 = 13. So we estimate the item will hold 13 charges of 503.

If you estimate it will hold thirteen charges, you should try for a few more just in case your estimate was off. In a successful imbed, you will receive a message that the item could only hold 13 charges before it began to overheat and so it stopped at 13, even though you were trying for a higher number. If you set your estimate too high, like say 25 charges, your imbed may fail and you will get a message you don’t have enough power. Solution is to try again for fewer number of charges.

Finding Blank Items to Imbed

Many box found treasures are imbeddable. Sometimes casting 405 at these treasures does not accurately reveal what it contains. To find out if they're imbeddable, or already imbedded, you can appraise them at the pawnshop. If he calls it strange and unusual, it's just fluff. An item of power is imbeddable. And a curious magical artifact is already imbedded. If casting 405 at an imbedded item reveals that it is not in your spell circle, find a bard to sing to the item to see what spell it contains. A bard can also tell you if an item is rechargeable as well as imbeddable.

You can also purchase blank items. Some places to look include the Wizard Guild in the Landing, (if you can find the shop), Solhaven magic shop, and most other towns magic shops. Try the backroom at the pawnshop. Or, you can buy them from an individual on the shopping amunet in the Landing.

Ranger Wands and Rods

Rangers can imbue wands and rods that are suitable for imbedding. They forage for a stick and then imbue it with mana until it becomes a rod or wand. If you have any luck at foraging, you can even get our own sticks and have a ranger imbue them. A wizard can imbed these blank wands and rods in the same way described above. The older a ranger gets, the more mana he can imbue into a rod. You may find that an older ranger can produce a rod that will hold 80 or more mana, in which case you can put many more charges in the item. A ranger rod can hold more mana than a ranger wand.

Using Mana to Imbed

When imbedding a blank item, you must have enough mana for the number of charges you are trying to imbed. For example, if you are trying for 15 charges of 503, then you must have at least 45 mana, even if you think it is only going to really only take 13 charges. If you don’t have enough mana, you will receive an error message that you don’t have enough power. The solution is to get more mana and try again, or try for fewer number of charges. It will never imbed more charges than you specify, but it may reduce the number you specified to a lower number

Reimbedding Items

Some items are reimbeddable. This means that when it runs out of charges, you can reimbed it with another spell (or the same spell.) To reimbed an item, you must purchase a grot t’kel potion from the alchemist and pour the potion on the item. Grot T’kel potion is available in most towns at the alchemist shops, and in Teras it goes by the name of Smelly Potion.

Example (405):

You gesture at a diamond stickpin

You sense that the wand is a magic item that holds the spell "Blur" with no charges.

You can pour a grot t’kel potion on the item to prepare it for reimbedding. If the pour is successful, the potion will seep into the item, and when you cast 405 at it a second time, you will find it has become a blank imbeddable item once again.

Example (405):

You gesture at a diamond stickpin

You sense that this is a magical item. There seems to be no spells or charges but the flows of essence are strangely attracted to it.

You can then proceed normally with imbedding the item. Items can often be reimbedded several times,

Possibility for Failure

All magical items degrade with each successive imbed. Eventually, you will pour your potion on the item and it will hiss and bubble.

You remove a grot t'kel potion from in your elven leather sack.

You pour your potion on the diamond stickpin.

The liquid begins to bubble and hiss and a grey smoke rises into the air.

That was the last drop.

The grot t'kel potion shatters into twinkling dust.

Example (405):

You gesture at a diamond stickpin

The essence swirls as it flows in a fog of chaotic patterns around the stickpin. You can't make any sense from the patterns.

The item is no longer imbeddable, and has become “fluff.” If reimbedding for someone, you should always let them know there is a chance their item may no longer be magical once you have poured the grot t’kel potion on it.

Whenever imbedding a blank item, there is always a chance of failure and that the item can become unusable or even blow up. As the wizard progresses in training, he will become better at it, and have less failure. When imbedding for others, you should always remind them in advance of the possibility for failure.

Crumbly vs. Non crumbly

Imbeddable items can be crumbly or non-crumbly. Basically, a crumbly item will disintegrate when the last charge is used. A non-crumbly item will run out of charges, but will not disintegrate. Generally, non-crumbly items are reimbeddable. The easiest way to tell if an item is crumbly or not is to lick it.

Example:

You lick your diamond stickpin

It tastes metallic.

Metallic items are non-crumbly

Example:

You lick your blue crystal

It tastes bitter.

Bitter items are crumbly.

Just because an item is bitter or metallic, doesn’t mean that it is a magical item. You still have to cast 405 at the item to test its magical abilities.

Spells that can be imbedded

You can only imbed spells that you know, in your own spell circles. There are many spells that are not imbeddable at all. If you try to imbed a spell that is not permitted you will get a message that the spell is not able to be imbedded and still have a chance to try imbedding a different spell in the item.

CHARGING

Along with everything else, the Charge Item (517) spell has undergone major changes these days. I believe it can still be a useful spell, especially for younger wizards who hunt using wands. (I used wands through about level 50 or so.)

Charging vs. Imbedding

First of all, let me define the difference between imbedding and charging an item. Many people are very confused about this issue, and tend to confuse the two. You’ll probably spend the rest of your wizard life trying to explain this to people.

Imbedding: You cast 420 at an item, then put any imbeddable spell of choice from one of your known spell circles into the item using the mana in your head.

Charge Item: You create an orb from a gem using 517, then add charges to an item that already contains a spell, using the orb and the mana in your own head. (Note: even if the item is empty of spells, you can still only add charges of the same spell that was already in the item.) You can’t choose what spell is going into the item.

Items Needed

One gem that is pure and worth at least 5,000 silvers.

Diamonds, emeralds, feystones, and other versions of these gems usually work best. Even if it is one of these expensive gems, it will be more likely to be successful if it is worth at least 5,000 silvers.

You must have a bard sing to the gem to make sure that it is pure. You can also sing to it yourself using a scroll with 1004. If the gem can’t be purified further, it’s good for an orb. If the gem “twists” as it is being purified, it is good for an orb.

A grot t’kel potion

You can purchase these at most alchemist shops in any town. It costs about 2,200 silvers in Ta’Illistim. On Teras Isle it is called Smelly Potion.

A chargeable item

Only a bard can determine for sure if a unique item is chargeable. Sometimes people know an item they own is chargeable because they have had it charged before. Some items are generally known to be chargeable. Virtually all wands (except ranger wands) are chargeable. You can also charge blue crystals and ruby amulets.

Ability to cast spell 517 (Charge Item)

What Items are Chargeable

Items that are know to be chargeable include nearly any wand (except a ranger made wand or some special merchant wands), blue crystals, ruby amulets (150), and glass (glaes?) amulets (916). Other unusual items may also be chargeable, such as certain jewelry and gems. The best way to be certain an unusual item is chargeable is to have a bard sing to it.

Keep in mind that trying to charge an item that contains a spell outside your known spell circles, or a spell that you have not yet learned, will increase your chances for failure. Training in Mana Share, Scroll Reading, and Magic Item use may increase your chances for success when charging outside of your known circles.

Degradation

Every item that is chargeable will now degrade a little each time it is recharged, until it is ultimately no longer chargeable. There is no known way to determine if an item is fully degraded until you actually try to charge it.

Basics of Charging

The first step is to pour the grot t’kel potion on the pure gem. Be sure the potion is absorbed into the gem. If it does not absorb, then the gem is not pure. Get a different gem and be sure it is pure.

Second, prep 517 and cast it at the gem. You will not have very good luck with charging if you have spell prep time for this spell. It is best if you have trained away your spell prep time. This first cast costs 17 mana. The gem will transform into a floating orb.

Next, prep 517 and cast it at the orb. This cast costs only 1 mana. Continue casting at the orb until it “hums with enchantment.” Each additional cast of 517 from here on will only cost one mana.

Finally, hold the item to be charged in your right hand and rub the orb. If successful, mana will leap from your head, go through the orb, and into the item, adding additional charges. If you don’t have enough mana for a single charge, then wait until you get enough mana before you rub the orb. It’s a good idea to have good mana share training and people who are willing to send you mana when charging. With the new “improved” charge item, I’ve found it’s best to have as much mana as possible in your head before rubbing the orb. In most cases, you may find that rubbing the orb more than one time for an item ends up in a ruined item.

The orb will last for up to approximately 15 minutes, allowing you to continue charging the item, or other items, providing you have enough mana. The better quality of gem, the more likely it will be to last the maximum time. A poor quality gem may “poof” before you ever get it to “hum with enchantment,” or at any time.

From time to time, the orb will become ineffective, and you will have to recast 517 at it again until it once again “hums with enchantment.” Then you can continue charging items.

Mana Cost for Charging

Now that the Charge Item spell is based on the wizard’s skill, it is very difficult to tell how many charges you have successfully place in an item. The original spell used exactly the same number of mana as the spell would cost if cast for each charge that went into an item. Now, however, each charge costs at least that much, plus however much the random skill/training factor decides it should. There is no formula that I’m aware of for calculating this. You could always get a bard to sing to it afterward and tell you how many charges remain.

Failures

There are more possible failures than ever with this spell. Here are some possibilities.

Degraded Item Chargeable items will now degrade over time. After the item has been recharged an unspecified number of times, charging will fail and it will become a non-magical item. There is nothing that can be done about this, and the owner of the item should be warned in advance.

Turns Green Caster sees a “sickly green light” when rubbing the orb. The item is no longer magical and will not accept any further charges. Some wizards have found that they can successfully put charges in an item on the first orb rub, but get the “green light” on the second rub. For this reason, they choose not to rub the orb more than once on any given item.

Destruction Item is gone, destroyed. Caster usually gets major nerve damage. Keep some herbs on hand for this just in case. Keep in mind you could also die from trying to charge an item that is way beyond your capabilities.

Nothing Orb glows but nothing happens. Means just what it says. Nothing happens. Item usually is not changed in any way. May also mean that the item is NOT chargeable.

Need Power Usually means you don’t have enough mana for one charge, or that you are under trained to charge this type of item. It is not a good idea to charge items that have a higher mana cost than you have training levels. It is also much more difficult to charge items in spell circles that are not known to a wizard.

Tips for Success

· Be unencumbered

· Charge in a workshop

· Don’t have spell prep time for 517

· Use only a pure gem worth at least 5k

· Don’t try to charge a spell that is higher than your training

· Major Elemental spell ranks increase success

· Magic Item Use training increases success

· Scroll Reading training increases success

· Have the maximum mana you can get before you rub the orb

· Keep herbs on hand for major nerves in case of failure



ENCHANTING

Basics of Enchanting

Enchanting is not the same as it used to be. No longer do wizards and all their friends have to sit for hours and hours infusing mana into the air in order to enchant. Under the new system, the actual process of enchanting takes only a few minutes. The basic steps include tempering the item, waiting for the temper to cure, and casting the enchant spell. These same steps are repeated once for each level of enchant. For example, to create a 1x item from an unenchanted item takes only one step. To take it up to 2x requires 2 more steps. For 3x, three more steps after that, and so on. To bring an unenchanted item to 3x add the steps together: 1 + 2 + 3 = 6 steps.

Before a wizard can begin to enchant, he must be at least old enough to cast the spell (925). The more trains he has under his belt, the better chance of success he will have. Most wizards are fairly certain that how they’ve trained also has an impact on their success. Number one is the number of ranks in the wizard spell circle. Secondary, well, nobody has been able to determine that for sure. Training in Magic Item Use, Scroll Reading, Mana Share, and Major Elemental ranks are suspected to have some affect on the outcome, but nobody can say with certainty. Mixed in with all that, there’s always the random factor that has nothing to do with training.

Currently, no wizard is able to enchant an item above 7x. In addition, each wizard is only allowed to work on ONE project that is 5x or above at a time, PER account (not per wizard). He can’t start any other projects that are over 4x until that item is completed or untempered. However, he can work on as many projects 4x and under at a time as he wishes, along with his one major project (5x and up.) Some wizards are convinced that working on too many at a time reduces their chances of success.

Determining Enchantability

The first step is to determine the current level that an item is enchanted to, and whether or not it is capable to be enchanted. The best way to find out is to have a bard sing to the item, or take it to the Abandoned Inn Crystal (often referred to as the AI Crystal). Hold your item in your left hand and touch the crystal.

Abandoned Inn Crystal

Red beam 1x (+1 to +5) bonus

Orange beam 2x (+6 to +10) bonus

Yellow beam 3x (+11 to +15) bonus

Green beam 4x (+16 to +20) bonus

Blue beam 5x (+21 to +25) bonus

Indigo beam 6x (+26 to +30) bonus

Violet beam 7x & up (+31 & up) bonus

Shadow Cursed item

Low resonant tone Crit weighted/padded

Low mellow tone Damage weighted/padded

Shrill piercing note Elemental crits

Pure high note Voln or potion blessed

Silver nimbus Blessed or holy

Brilliant golden light Elementally bladed (411)

Golden scintillating light Imbeddable

Tiny golden sparks Contains magic

Any item that is blessed cannot be enchanted as long as the bless remains on it. You can remove the bless by using the weapon until it wears off, or having a bard unravel the bless from it. Do not try to remove a bless by using Elemental Dispel (417) as it is possible to accidentally remove any enchant from the item with this spell.

An item that has been ebladed (had 411 cast on it) must have the magic removed from it before enchanting. Either swing it or have a bard unravel the magic. Do not use 417 for reasons stated above.

Items that are crit weighted, padded, contain elemental crit flares, or are holy cannot be enchanted.

A weapon that is blessable will no longer be able to be blessed after enchanting.

A cursed item must be uncursed before enchanting.

You will find that many items in the game can be enchanted. You can enchant a plate, a spoon, a stick, a shirt, boots, gloves, helmet. This does not make the items defensive items. However, what wizard would truly be content without a set of enchanted flatware?

Enchanting Potions

Once it is determined the current level of enchant and that the item is enchantable, the next step is to purchase the correct potion (see table below.) The potion is poured directly onto the item to temper it and prepare it to be enchanted. The level of enchant will determine how long one must wait before casting the enchant spell on it.

ENCHANTING POTIONS

Potion Enchant Cost Doses

Rohnuru 1x 3500 4

Duqnuru 2x-3x 5500 4

Dirtokh 4x-5x 10,00 4

Mirtokh 6x-7x 35,000 4

Sisfu 0x-5x 17,500 4

Sarmoc Any 4

NOTE: Items cannot be tempered or enchanted above 7x at this time.

Use this guide to decide which potion to use. You will probably find that the cheaper potions will not work at all on higher enchants, so there’s no getting around the price. You can use a higher potion to temper a lower enchant, but there’s no evidence that there is any benefit from doing this. It can be handy to know that though, if it’s a long walk to buy a potion and you happen to already have a higher one on hand.

Each temper of a weapon will use 1 dose of a potion. Each temper of a shield or armor will use 2 doses of a potion. You can use the verb measure to determine whether your potion has enough doses for your item. Otherwise you can end up wasting an expensive dose.

These potions can be purchased at the shop at the Wizard’s Guild at Teras, Rivers Rest, Icemule, Wehnimer’s Landing, and Ta’Illistm. To check for availability of potions, you can “get first <or second, third, fourth, etc.> potion,” or “buy first <second, third, etc.> potion.” Potions also appear to be available at the Caravansary alchemist. However, if you try to purchase them you will find they are “out of stock.” (Note: I believe you can still purchase the grot t’kel potion there.) It may be possible to buy potions at the alchemist shop in the Landing, also, but you are apt to find they are also out of stock.

The Sarmoc potion is used ONLY for removing the temper from an item that has been tempered. Any wizard can untemper any project with Sarmoc, whether or not he was the one who tempered it in the first place.

Tempering the Item

Now that you’ve determined your item can be enchanted and you’ve purchased the right potion, you’re ready to begin the actual enchanting process. The first step is to pour the potion on the item. Before pouring the potion, be sure you are unencumbered. All wizards agree that this is a definite factor in the success of the pour. Also, be sure you are in a noded area. Even better, go to a workshop.

There are some basic things that most wizards agree are important to a successful enchanting session. Here’s a checklist to use before tempering or casting an item:

Encumbrance

Scars/Wounds

Wearing 509 (Helps with encumbrance)

Node

Workshop (Definitely for final cast, for all if skill is

weaker than desired)

There is always a chance of failure:

FAILED POUR, RANDOM:

You pour your potion on the armor.

1d100: 25 + Modifiers: 133 == 158

The liquid is quickly absorbed into your mithril plate armor and it looks good, but nothing else happens.

This is an example of a random failed pour. The solution is to try again. If you don’t have any luck, you may not have enough training, or you might need to try moving to a different area, or a workshop. Or, you may be too encumbered.

The 1d100 roll is determined by a random roll.

The Modifier is determined by a wizards training, and is affected by encumbrance, whether the person is working on a major project, and the area he is in. The specific training factors that determine this modifier have not been revealed by the gods of Elanthia. Most wizards would agree that ranks in the wizard spell circle are a factor. There is also some evidence that Scroll Reading plays a part.

FAILED POUR, BLESSED ITEM:

You pour your potion on the bow.

The liquid coats your thanot long bow, which glows faintly white for a moment, but then returns to normal.

This bow had a bless on it. Apparently the owner accidentally held it in the wrong hand when receiving a bless from a cleric. The solution is to remove the bless and try tempering it again.

FAILED POUR, NOT ENCHANTABLE:

You pour your potion on the hauberk.

The liquid bubbles and hisses as it touches your chain hauberk, but nothing else happens.

This item is not enchantable for some reason. Perhaps it has padding. I believe this is also the same message you will get if you try to temper an item over 4x when you already have a major project in progress.

SUCCESSFUL POUR:

You pour your potion on the armor.

1d100: 73 + Modifiers: 133 == 206

The liquid oozes over the surface of your mithril plate armor, creating a faint aura of steam. With a soft cloth, you work the liquid in well until you hear a faint crackling noise coming from it, and it appears faded. The tempering seems to have been successful. Your mithril plate armor should be ready to enchant in 2 to 3 days.

Timetable for Temper to Cure

The time it takes for a temper to become complete depends on the level of enchant in progress. Using a higher potion will not decrease the temper time. Your ability to get an accurate representation of the temper time may depend on your training.

TEMPER TIMES (PER POUR)

0x 24-25 hours

1x 1 to 2 days

2x 2 to 3 days

3x 3 to 4 days

4x 4 to 5 days

5x 5 to 6 days

6x 6 to 7 days

7x 7 to 8 days

Checking Temper

You can determine if the item is fully tempered by casting 405 (Elemental Detection) on it.

Item is still tempering.

You gesture at a mithril-bound vultite kite shield.

The patterns of essence about the shield indicate it is being enchanted and is one of your projects. You sense the shield has a mildly strong enchantment. It is currently tempering and on the fourth step of the enchanting process.

Tempering is complete and item is ready to be enchanted.

You gesture at a mithril-bound vultite kite shield.

The patterns of essence about the shield indicate it is being enchanted and is one of your projects. You sense the shield has a mildly strong enchantment. It is currently tempered and ready to be enchanted. It is on the fourth step of the enchanting process.

Checking temper time with potion.

You pour your potion on the shield.

You recognize the shield from working on it before, and remember that it is currently +25. From the way the liquid bubbles and hisses on the vultite kite shield, you can tell that it is already tempered. Careful examination shows the item is on the fourth stage of the enchant process and will be ready to enchant in about 1 day.

If the item is still tempering, and you want to know how long until it is ready, or you can’t remember what level of enchant this project is, you can pour a cheap tempering potion on it. If the remaining time is less than one day, you will get a message telling how many hours remain.

Casting the Enchant

After the item is fully tempered, the enchant spell (925) can be cast on the item. As with pouring the temper, be sure you are unencumbered and in a node. A workshop is better. For the final cast, most wizards agree that a workshop is necessary. There’s a workshop in the Wizards Guild, and a few others in the lands.

SUCCESSFUL CAST:

You gesture at a morning star.

As you concentrate on casting your magicks at it, faint sparkles surround and embed the morning star, and join themselves to its very structure. Then the sparkles pulse brighter, in unison. A bright aura suddenly surrounds the morning star and seems to consume it! After a moment the glow fades and the morning star returns to normal. The enchantment was successful.

After successful cast:

Prep 405

You gesture at a morning star.

The patterns of essence about the morning star indicate it is being enchanted and is one of your projects. You sense the shield has a mildly strong enchantment. It is ready to be tempered and on the third step of the enchanting process.

The item is ready to be tempered for the next step. Pour another potion on it and wait for it to temper again!

After the final successful cast:

Prep 405

You gesture at a morning star.

The patterns of essence about the star indicate it has been enchanted, and you recognize your enchanter's mark on it.

You no longer get a message about the level of enchant, but you can see that it’s been successfully completed.

Enchant Failures

There is a chance for failure at any step of the enchanting process, and the final step is the most critical. To reduce chances of failure, be unencumbered, be in a node or workshop, and be sure you have enough training. Wizards are estimating that it takes approximately 10 levels of wizard spell circle ranks per level of enchant, as well as other unverifiable training factors.

Faint Sparkles Enchant did not work, and remains tempering on the same step as before. No additional tempering is necessary, however, it will take longer than usual for this tempering step to complete. Use 405 or pour cheap potion on the item to determine when it is ready to enchant again.

Loss of Temper Enchant failed, and the temper was lost. The item is now untempered, and must be started again from the first step.

Drawdown Similar to the Loss of Temper, but the item also lost one (or more?) enchants. It can be re-enchanted as desired.

Curse The item's description is changed permanently to "a blackened <whatever>", and the enchant goes negative. I've seen -2x personally (ouch!), but I don't know if you always get -2x. The item can be re-enchanted, but the description remains blackened.

Destruction The item is gone, destroyed.

A failed cast of enchant can result in mild to severe injury or death to the caster as well as others in the room.

Ball of white flame:

Wizardess gestures at some ora-plated pyrothag hide brigandine.

The brigandine shakes violently and blossoms into an intense ball of white flame, which then explodes in a shower of sparks! Hot metallic debris showers the room. Wizardess takes the brunt of the blast!

... 70 points of damage!

Blow to abdomen breaks Wizard almost in two!

* Wizardess drops dead at your feet!

You are caught by the explosion...

... 25 points of damage!

Flames burn neck into a bubbling mass of flesh. Forget lunch.

You are stunned for 8 rounds!

Don’t Cast After Minor Failure

This person had a minor failure, and immediately tried casting 925 at the leather again causing further damage and increased failure, as well as injury to himself.

You gesture at some full leather.

You concentrate on casting your magicks at the leather. Faint sparkles surround and embed it, and try to bond with its structure. Something isn't quite right though, and the sparkles fade.

You concentrate on casting your magicks at the leather. Suddenly, a cyan flame erupts from the leather and strikes you down!

... 30 points of damage!

Muscle blasted away from your arm exposing scorched bone!

You are stunned for 5 rounds!

Elemental Detection with Enchant

When casting 405 (Elemental Detection) during various stages of the enchanting process, you will get the following in your message. Here is what this wording indicates.

No Enchant 0x

Weak 1 - 2x

Mediocre 3 – 4x

Mildly Strong 5 - 6x

Incredible 7x & up

First Step First temper

Second Step Second temper

Third Step Third temper

Fourth Step Fourth temper

Fifth Step Fifth temper

Sixth Step Sixth temper

Final Step Last temper

The total number of steps is determined by the level of enchant you are working on. 3x will be three steps, 4x will be four steps, etc. The final step is the last step of the total number. Some items are a little between enchants when you work on them, such as imflass (+12). When working on an odd enchant item such as this, you may find that you have to repeat the “final step” twice because of odd messaging.

Here’s what you see if you cast 405 on a work in progress by another wizard. This can be useful to know if someone has asked you to untemper an item for them.

You gesture at some black steel full plate.

The patterns of essence about the plate indicate it is being enchanted and is a project by Augustinia Rosequeen.



WIZARD GUILD

You can be invited to join the wizard guild after you have received 15 levels of training. To join, bring 5,000 silvers (no note) to the guild and find the Guildmaster (Keplar at the landing guild.) Ask him about joining the guild, and he will take your silvers and you’ll become a member. Each month you’ll be reminded to pay your 1,500 silver dues. You must go to the same guy and ask him about CHECKIN to pay your dues each month. You can’t pay in advance.

You don’t have to be a guild member to buy enchanting potions in the Wizard Guild. You DO have to be a guild member to use the workshop.

There are a few little fluffy wizard related items you can buy at the guild.

Non wizards cannot enter the guild (except for the store), even if they are in your group.

At this time there is only one wizard guild skill, which is the FLICK verb. If you are a member, you can use this verb to “flick” any item out of your inventory unless it’s too heavy. You can even use it to flick an item out of a closed container. You may also specify which container you wish to flick the item out of. There is no training required to use this verb.

Currently, there is a Wizard Guild in Wehnimer’s Landing, Teras Isle, Icemule, and Solhaven. There is also one in Ta’Illistm, but it is not yet open (it does have a wagon out front that sells enchanting potions.)